LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S2010 - JAMES LONG
Taking inspiration from Andy Warhol's Oxidation artworks and the natural world, James Long's collection pushed army fatigue to the limits. The first look, a skin-tight long sleeved leather t-shirt, paired with James's signature padded knee-d leather trousers, hinted at the brutal, tarnished and utilitarian collection to come. Deconstructed, Rodarte-esque battered knits overlayed sheening bottle green foil; the sheening hearts of war-torn comrades literally visible.
The metal of war also resounded in metallic copper/bronze pieces, hinting at the rusty tones of oxidised metal from which James drew his inspiration, layered beneath and over sun bleached denim, the collection hinted at a natural rather than machine-driven destruction. Camouflage made an appearance in waxed trousers and James's signature accessories - standout satchels and weekend bags - and supple leather re-appeared in utility waistcoats layered over a blazer, replete with a bondage-style back.
Through his invocation of natural destruction, of matt and sheen, of beauty and the macabre, James's much welcome re-interpretation of camouflage and of war itself - pushed menswear in a challenging new direction.
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