Nineties classic blasting out, I naively anticipated another Shannon masterclass in scally sportswear. A resounding rebuttal of my expectations, Christopher Shannon instead leapt forward, balancing texture and stealth in a collection ringing with elegant swagger. The sportswear hallmarks remained - a longline shirt come parka in glistening technical grey and blue, cargo shorts were worn over knitted leggings and sheening trousers were fabricated in parachute material, and all paired with clunky unashamed hiking boots.
Texture though snuck in; a navy sweatshirt came panelled in sheer, towelling and jersey, trademark wetlook shirts in navy, fuschia and violet were contrasted against grey shearling and again against denim - the front black, the back bleached light blue. Multiple layering, built up with tied waists, insignia bedecked scarves and beanies to shorts over trousers, long length shirts layered beneath short sweatshirts further softened Shannon's boys. A pixelated paisley print, applied to jersey roll necks and long johns, continued the evolution of classic pieces, as did an engine blue shirt, cut away to reveal the shoulders.
The final look; a sheer boiler suit belted at the waist and accented by a fuchsia pocket balanced cerebral masculinity with a new delicacy; a surprising but welcome step in a new direction.
Catwalk photography by Emma Gibney
Backstage photography by Matt King
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