WORD.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S2011 – MARTINE ROSE

Dissuading any doubters who may have expected a slew of signature shirting, Martine Rose turned her customary fusion of subcultural streetwear and classic, gallant tailoring to a full apparel collection, aptly titled cut-and-paste. In line with her intelligent, graphic and transformative re-appropriation of the humble shirt, separates and outerwear referenced multiple origins, whilst standing resolutely progressive.

A juxtaposition of hard and soft, machismo swagger undercut by ornate feminine finishes, military inspired bullet proof vests and funnel neck outerwear rendered in decadent brocade; a full skirt in bottle green high shine nylon flaring from the base, tonal velcro straps drawing it close to the body and defining a masculine waist. On paper incongruous, under Martine's touch invigorating, desirable and irrefutably current, the tale of juxtapositions continued to introduce Nineties punk - slimline vinyl trousers and chaps - of the same era Hip Hop - blocked branded sweatshirts and bombers in searing brights - and tasselled, tactile accessories from picture postcard baseball caps to pom-pom necklaces.

Never erring close to pat-revivalism, a chapter of shirting - spanning crisp white cottons finished with drawstring and zip detailing and athletic military green and high-vis amber technical panelling, long line medicinal variations falling to the knee and segmented via three dimensional plackets and layered flap pockets, and a pure, classic white take - referenced Martine's past whilst acting as foundation for a refreshing, and much deserved, future.

Photos by Duilio Marconi

Posted by Luke Raymond