WORD.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S2011 – MARY KATRANTZOU 

Rallied with the anticipation of my first pitstop to Topshop's Waterloo venue and enveloped by the deserved buzz continuing to build around Mary Katrantzou after her previous seasons' dalliance with shape and silhouette, a collection bursting with elaborate, sumptuous interior prints and the occasional lampshade fulfilled all expectations. From Venetian sunrooms to Italian galleries, Miami balconies to be-chandeliered hallways, strong, stylised domestic (but never humble) prints fit with Mary's focus upon the ornate whilst encouraging a pursuit into untouched cuts.

Whilst others are overtaken by a drive for minimalism, apparently simple forms - a cap sleeved shift and off the shoulder interpretation hitting mid-thigh, a stiff, structured blazer dress, lightweight silk mini-shorts, a cropped, short sleeved, zip up jacket and a button and placket-less silk shirt - were finished not only with the aforementioned prints but with pelmet trims and chiffon inserts at the hip, fringe falling from the waist and upholstery fringe accompanying hemlines, saw Mary succumb not to external pressures but to the secretly seductive detailing of homebound spaces.

Flaring lampshade skirts replete with crystal droplets at hem, contrast sleeves finished with curving, curtain-like detail and wry, humourous touches - the curtains of a print protruding in 3D, placement gems adding decoration to the decorative, and the jewellery - finial like pendants in sterling silver, a double-line choker in rose gold with emerald droplets - invigorated the elegant with a shot of youth. In a combination of rich and cool hues - hot red, blush pink, midnight navy, azure, mustard and chocolate brown - three finale gowns cut off the shoulder and falling into a tiered, flaring, laser cut bustle epitomized a collection wholly fit for the locations it depicted.

Catwalk photography by Duilio Marconi.

Posted by Luke Raymond