WORD.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S2011 – MARIOS SCHWAB 

Commencing the final womenswear day of an eclectic week, Marios Schwab reconciled an Atlantic division; the unashamed and unadulterated Grunge spirit of London tempered by the clean, fluid, athletic lines and nineties nuances enveloping New York. The buttoned up blouses and prim propriety of Autumn/Winter utterly abandoned, Joan Jett wigs in black and blonde and a soundtrack taking in a revving motorbike, Nirvana's 'Come As You Are' before and The Boss's 'I'm On Fire', escorted a stripped back riff on romantic discontent.

A parade of silk slip dresses - worn alone with little embellishment - re-appropriated the Courtney Love influence in evidence last night at Meadham Kirchhoff, reducing it to its sparest, most symbolic and - as they sinuously caressed the body - feminine forms. In efullgent turquoise, nude,  black and carico green, interrupted only by lace inserts and trims at bust and knee or floor length hem, slender spaghetti straps spoke of the still emerging nineties influence, whilst backs cut away to reveal pentagram and crucifix formations - constructed of the same straps - forged the conceit forward with spiritual, paganistic precision.

Indicative of Schwab's desire to communicate "the modern woman's multi-faceted personality", leather pieces in caramel and black - at first separates - high waisted, knee length shorts finished with minimal square pleats at the waist, sharp, angular jackets and skirts - before moving into halter neck dresses, layered with d-ring harnesses spanning the waist and extending to the shoulders - added a robust, resilient utilitarianism.

Snug long sleeved t-shirts and dresses printed with serpentile, rose infused graphic tattoos and paired with clean, leather silhouettes epitomized a vital, youthful and anarchic take on minimalism that captured the conflicting spirit sure to exist in every woman.

Catwalk images to follow...

Posted by Luke Raymond