Where Tim Soar has previously sought to sharply realign menswear, forging progressive fabrications, and transgressive, though still erudite, silhouettes, the past three seasons have been marked by the pursuit and reinterpretation of menswear classics. Sportswear nuances have forever infiltrated Soar’s work, from the early elasticated cuffs hems to barely there parachute outerwear, and for AW11/12 it is their subtle inclusion that informs a quiet revision of menswear staples.
Adhering staunchly to the devil in the detail adage – underlined with paper bag masked mannequins - so relevant to traditional tailoring, an oversized duffle is tweaked with a broad funnel neck collar, a down-filled blouson in rich cream reinterprets naval and militaria for the current bomber boom whilst buttonless blazers, coated lapels and raglan sleeved varsity jackets in raw, utilitarian wools and hues of bottle green and midnight navy elevate the athletic to elegant restraint.
Fulfilling the “Him\She” tenet promised by the collection’s title – and so many of London’s showings from first timers to former menswear designers – womenswear appropriates menswear detailing. A tuxedo dress is shorn of weighty sleeves and belted with a displaced cummerbund whilst a raw-seamed blazer is cropped to the natural waist and paired with a fluid, long line pencil skirt.
Images by Sam Wilson.
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