LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S2010 - MARIOS SCHWAB
Marc Jacobs stated in New York that he's bored of the ubiquitous black and studs. Much like Christopher Kane's flighty feminine play with gingham, and even Pam Hogg's baby blue and pink colourways, Marios Schwab maintained the same pace, presenting a fresh and, as always with Marios, sophisticated take on this new mood. A departure from the structure of his geologically influenced A/W 09 collection, Marios appeared to invoke different eras through the blocked layer of his pieces.
Light, sheer chiffons, draped exquisitely to the floor recalled romaticism, whereas stiff pleats and power suits, rendered in pastel blues, creams and coppers eeked of moderism. Always a purveyor of the floor length gown, Marios's re-interpretation of this through layering - a process first hinted at in the double dresses of last season's collection? - was perhaps the most striking feature of the collection.
Cropped blazers - with regard to both sleeve and length - and silk t-shirts sat atop delicately exaggerated hips in organza, sharply pleated almost corsetry, finished with a sinously sweeping, slashed, gathered, and/or draped third layer - Marios's skill with fabrics abounding. Trompe L'oeil prints of gems on crop tops identified a further talent in Marios's extensive ouvre, and all in all resulted in a show which proved that modern innovation and timeless sophistication can be reconciled under talented hands.
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