WORD.

LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W2010-11 – ANN-SOFIE BACK

 

A short dash to the Flower Cellars, down a few procarious ramps and into Topshop's basement show space. Spartan and spare, the scene was set for Ann-Sofie Back's return to the London Fashion Week schedule after a season-long break. The lights dimmed before fading to complete darkness and then exploding into full beam. Raw and unapologetic, the ensuing collection hit the season's nineties stride with expected idiosyncrasy as hair slicked back and then flattened crowned a brutal caress of no-concessions femininity.

Ice blue chiffon, slashed to reveal a slice of thigh, of bust, of hip - was cut into layered knee-length skirts, minimal collarless shirts and deconstructed shift dresses trailing floor length tails. Crew neck cuts gave an explicit nod towards the nineties which was consolidated with skin-tight long sleeved t-shirts, screenprinted with the x-ray of a male torso, and salt and pepper boucle skirts, shifts and jackets, classic if not for the unravelling threads posited at random spots. A balance between hard and soft, feminine and fearsome, the grey suede of a cropped moto jacket and barely there cut away dress lent weight and luxury, whilst all the while consolidating the show's raw, near feral feel.

Delicacy too emerged in never-frothy dalliances with tulle, chiffon and feathers. Gathered into an exoskeletal motif, weightless white shirts were juxtaposed against heavy,washed denim whereas a dove grey dress variation stood alone, tulle flourishes exploding from the shoulder blades. At once beautiful and destructive, empowered yet fragile, it's good to have Ann-Sofie...ahem....back.

Photography by Palida Boonyarungsrit.