WORD.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S2011 – MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF

Drawing on last season's Toy Kingdom conceit, Meadham Kirchhoff once again subverted ubiquitous grunge notions for a fully fledged and nigh-on somnambulant stroll into Tim Burton territory. A layered, ruffled and ragged rebuttal of Philo inspired polish, the set design - flamingo feathers, knolls of heather and bark bedecked lollipops - fit a fantastical, Alice in Wonderland worthy walk, pastel pinks and parma violet purples hinting at an unsettling naivety beneath a Courtney Love inspired delve into Goth.

Crowned by encrusted tiaras (teeming with crystals and enamelled florals) Gene Simmons eyes, (eyelashes exaggerated, bleeding in thick, kohl black strokes of eyeliner) and dulled rainbow locks in hues of bottle green, deep blue, yellow and red; lace trimmed Peter pan collars and ruffled, peasantry dresses (near sheer, worn and purposefully unrefined) were scandalised by exposed bras, cropped cuts, high roll necks and blood red velvet chokers.

Drop waists and mid length skirts paired with knee high socks spoke of a sullied, schoolgirl innocence whilst ribbed, lurex leggings in blush pink, seams turned outwards, added a contrasting athleticism. Consolidating the narrative, borrowed boyfriend t-shirts - covered in perverse handwritten scribbles and layered above long sleeved chiffon gowns and beneath slashed milkmaid variations - contemporised the near period shapes, tempering Lolita indulgence with Camden, London casual.

Cropped leather jackets in blinding neon hues with exposed zips and Punk tattoo prints, clunky, embroidered and encrusted platform mules alongside a palette of predominant black, punchy yellow, blush pinks and lilacs captured core Meadham Kirchhoff values - shocking yet louche, powerful yet ever endearing.

Images via style.com

Posted by Luke Raymond