WORD.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S2011 – MARIA FRANCESCA PEPE 

Tom Ford's refusal to release images of his return to womenswear indicative of the internet's hasty impact upon the classic catwalk show, Maria Francesca Pepe utilised the benefits of technology to revitalise a Twenties Salon Presentation. A nod to Maria's Italian roots, the Italian Cultural Institute - all parquet floors, whitewashed walls, and gilded cornicing - accommodated a live look-book shoot with thirteen models stood upon numbered plinths, arrows dictating their next move before they posed upon a rotating platform ahead of a final capture of the lookbook image.

And the clothes? Inspired by passion, sixteenth century 'amor los une' engravings shared by lovers to pledge love after death and the exotic, robust imagery of Frida Kahlo, this macabre meditation upon death informed a predominantly black collection. A traceable continuation of last season, now classic cuts - pencil skirt, shirt, maxi and shift dresses, t-shirts and cycling shorts - came re-interpreted via cut-outs and trailing jewellery additions. Trimmed of lapels, sleeves suspended from grommet tape and multiple chains, a blazer embodied a dark, subversive sensuality, whilst cut-outs at the bust and torso of a body-conscious dress - revealing a simple bandeau bra and slithers of skin - too revelled in the flesh.

High waisted briefs worn beneath sheer maxi dresses extended the underwear as outerwear theme whilst a re-occurring print - a volcanic collision of sediment and skull in emerald, navy and burgundy - offered an alternative to all-out black alongside metallic jacquards in pewter. Always renowned for her work with accessories, the press releases announcement that jewellery 'makes the outfit' was realised in the exoskeletal pieces dripping from garment and body. Lashings of chain, soldered together to create the bare bones of dresses, collars, trousers and bras came layered across clean silhouettes, crucifix's and crystals interrupting long, flowing lengths, whereas singular statement pieces - double rings, bangles, chokers and spike peppered bracelets - presented a take-away taste of Maria Francesca's idiosyncratic aesthetic.

Photography by Victoria Loomes

Posted by Luke Raymond