WORD.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S2011 – SPIJKERS EN SPIJKERS 

Returning to London after two consecutive years in Milan and a diffusion line showing in Amsterdam, Spijkers En Spijkers staged a collection indebted to Nick Cave's murderous 'Where The Wild Roses Grow' paean to Kylie Minogue. Chatting to the twins backstage, indistinguishable save for the different colourways of their mannish suits, one in pertrol blue one in black, dirty blonde rock'n roll locks centre parted, the design duo revealed that - despite literal, aesthetic illusions to the song's narrative - it was "the emotion" they hoped to capture, a tussle between "naughty and innocent", girlish charm and underlying darkness.

The manifestation of such ambiguity, charming shorts suits - high waisted and finished with an inverted central pleat and paired with a boxy, matching jacket - came in a creamy beige, a cut out spanning above the bust providing unexpected peek-a-book exposure of the female body, at once seductive and naive, depicting innocent and temptress. Whilst long, loose pant suits in similar tones and lightweight linen blends captured the prevailing seventies mood of the season with a masculine bent - perhaps a nod to Nick Cave's role in the dialogue - a passage of short dresses, dungarees, rompers and all-in-ones worn in the majority by elvish, blonde models compounded the collection's balance of youthful subversion.

Rendered in broidery anglaise, basket silk and crepe de shine, babydoll and shift silhouettes came finished with a painted floral, wild roses, print; contrast cap sleeves in lace, collars and plackets in black and criss-cross straps lent a hard, angular contrast. The established cut out motif continuing, blocked, square edges exposed the small of an armpit whilst diamond variations were located at the centre of a bust amidst tessellating, geometric cut-outs or enveloping the whole back. An alternative take on the conceit, mixed material bricolages consolidated the already glanced brodery anglaise and floral print in a diamond patchwork. Concluding with a selection of black looks -a severe trench dress and all-in-one, black lace overlaying nude - Spijkers and Spijkers attained their desired emotion, darkness and light at one.

Catwalk images to follow...

Posted by Luke Raymond