WORD.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S2011 – FELDER FELDER

 

Showing back-to-back with Hannah Marshall's re-evaluation of her signature aesthetic, the Felder Felder twins too presented a subtle rebuttal of the severe and seditious. Summoning an imaginary muse instilled with a beatnik Easy Rider spirit, the duo danced a customary balance between hard and soft, guiless naivety and boisterous impulse. Bursting into action in a flurry of strobe lighting and building violins; sharp, considered cuts - at centre and side seam - sliced leather vests and pencil skirts, slender trousers and shift dresses into exoskeletal pattern, a motif picked up in hologramatic bone prints applied to chiffon and organza across kicky skater skirts and barely-there tanks.

Continuing a collision of flighty and fiery, near sheer long sleeved lurex knits cut lean on the body came paired with ra-ra skirts rendered in a mix of leather and tulle, sinuous silk gowns were suspended from holster-like leather harnesses that punctuated exposed backs, as the studded leather bustier and O-ring detail that completed a baby doll dress summoned a tough, timelessly itinerant spirit. Moving through an indigo denim dress - again in ultra-fine knit and peppered with metallic hardware - and the collection's singular concession to a longer length - draped blazers and waistcoats, rendered in the finest of suede and cut on a square block to encourage a fluid drape, high waisted leather trousers and a brief foray into denim - gray, faded and straight of leg - presented an complementary take on daywear.

Rendered in a palette of black, indigo blue and stone accented against a muted, dirtied lilac and rich, saturated fuschia, a smattering of flat rectangular studs - dispersed across high waisted briefs and an oversized blazer - epitomized the collection's air of refined resistance.

Catwalk images by Duilio Marconi.

Posted by Luke Raymond