WORD.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S2011 – LOU DALTON 

Kicking off menswear day it what seemed like her rightful 9am spot - after last season's diversion to the Fashion East installation - Lou Dalton reinterpreted a nomadic, gypsy spirit through her always refined eye. Fulfilling the oft applied epithet of 'the British Lanvin', the first exit - bleach blonde Thomas Penfound in a black shorts suit consisting of just-above-the-knee shorts and matching, workwear inspired blazer – gave a nuanced, subtle nod to utility when finished with gold zipper and embroidered patch embellishments.

Tonal panelling, raw, exposed seams, saddle back pockets and shorn off sleeves across blazers, slimline chinos, and shorts hitting mid thigh broached a polished, make-do-and-mend treatment, and an ineffably formal functionality, Dalton's dandies of the previous summer hardened but still dab handed with a needle and thread. Indicative of dusted, textural vistas and offering rustic, organic warmth against twilight winds, honeycomb and waffle knits in wheat - one backed in flat gray another interspersed with burgundy yarn and finished with exposed, dropped stitches - complemented a subtly combative palette of khaki, cream, camel and navy.

Introducing the collection's non-conformist, Romany conceit, a burgeoning peacock appliqué burst first across a buttoned-up chambray shirt before appearing as a refrained print across panelled t-shirts. Impacting upon a graphic cartoon print upon formal shorts and teamed with chunky, woven metallic jewellery, Lou Dalton - drawing on a wide range of travels from India, Europe and South Africa - began the day's proceedings with an eclectic elegance typical of London.

Photos by Duilio Marconi

Posted by Luke Raymond