WORD.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S2011 – NEW POWER STUDIO 

 

Cryptic and concise, the show notes to New Power Studio's second showing under the MAN banner offered little but a bout of contrasts; "Connection vs Isolation, Spontaneity vs Schedule". Detailing dissatisfaction with the wider world, "Outside - Bad, Inside - Good" and whether interior monologue, a rallying rebuttal of enforced constraints or a heady combination of both, designer Thom Murphy led the audience on a free-reign gambol through sportswear, skewed suiting and spectacle.

Menswear day gradually enveloped by an increasing focus upon scally inspired casualwear - see Christopher Shannon and Martine Rose - panelled shirts in baby blue - cut neither oversized nor slimline - and elasticated joggers in stealthy, battleship gray donned by shaven headed models in Reebok classics commenced the collection with a charged air of anti-fashion nonchalance. Taking in bomber and funnelled necked jackets in black, camel and silver, t-shirts punctuated falling sharp crystallized prints and a bin bag tracksuit - literal in iridescent black nylon, parachute shoulders and a yellow drawstring waist, New Power Studio strove a defiantly individual and interrogative path.

A brief interlude - four dancers draped in toilet roll, donning stellar print sweatshirts and matching jogging bottoms in lunar coral and azure - lead into an avian hoodie and rucksack - toddler included - plumage rendered in rubber gloves. Concluding with relaxed suiting in chocolate brown, seams and lining exposed at reverse and a towelling two piece - sweatshirt and jogging bottoms in bucolic wheat tones, New Power Studio's joyous, primarily wearable performance finished the MAN show on a high note. No question.

Photos by Duilio Marconi

Posted by Luke Raymond