WORD.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S2011 – ANN SOFIE BACK ATELJE 

Reconciling the seemingly incongruous - hardcore pornography and a change in moniker (Ann-Sofie Back Atelje) to signal a more mature, sophisticated direction - Anne Sofie Back departed from the denim, knit and casual-wear orientated collections (an aesthetic perhaps now sated by her Creative role at Cheap Monday) for a seductive, subversive take on ubiquitous minimalism.

A natural progression rather than a jump-on-the-bandwagon about turn, Ann Sofie has after all always been a master of severity and clean, knife edge sharp statement, the strains of Donna Summer's 'Love To Love You Baby' accompanied the first piece; a wet look, cap sleeved dress hitting above the knee, clinging tightly, almost clammily to the body and commencing an address of sharp, elegant eroticism.

Covering rather than exposing the body, a sharp shouldered coat dress - cut in a v neckline to the naval - exposed a twisted plastic bra worn over a nude leather crew neck, the irridescent sheen thrown off suggestive of through-the-computer viewing. Maxi skirts and cap sleeved tops, one shouldered column gowns, wide leg trousers, sheer blouses and a funnel necked jumpsuit finished with contrast bustle falling to the floor either came accompanied with or were pierced by a variety of sterling silver rings, offering a shining and suitably transgressive contrast to sober, black and white pieces.

Posted by Luke Raymond