WORD.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S2011 – FANNIE SCHIAVONI 

Lightly confused but undeterred by a slight shift in location - from two seasons in the East wing to an all enveloping sweep of the space occupied by the now departed Margiela exhibition and a colony of whitewashed huts nestling on Somerset House's Thames facing terrace - a browse  London Fashion Week's exhibition space revealed the vitality of those showing off catwalk. From sea-side to big smoke, the seemingly humble cluster of beach huts housing the work of NEW GEN recipients broadcast an overriding mood of refreshing, refined innovation.

Moving from cabin to cabin, a dash into Fannie Schiavoni revealed the evolution of her chainmail aesthetic. Neckpieces - in dulled silver chanmail staggered in longer lengths at the centre before tapering out - were infused with triangular accents in rich burgundy and jade, whilst religious iconography reared its head in a back facing crucifix, rendered in the same, circular links.

Whereas slighter, slimline pieces presented a trailing versatility, the incorporation of feather-come-scale like beading added a weighty almost period play on plumage. Sculpted into large scale collars and cuffs, a full scale gown, metallic feathers enveloping shoulders and torso before falling into chain mail loops at the ribs, saw Fannie reconcile her jewellery work and womenswear background.

Images by Victoria Loomes

Posted by Luke Raymond