WORD.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S2011 – BERNARD CHANDRAN

At once forging the genesis of his aesthetic and capturing a softer, silken mood already emerging in London, Bernard Chandran presented 'A Modern Romance' for Spring/Summer. A departure from the notions of frill and flounce oft conjured by the phrase; clean elegant fluidity informed cap sleeved shifts, skater and tube dresses and jumpsuits in the slightest of silks and cinched at the waist with a rounded, slimline leather belt.

In icy, near robotic tones of gray, a moire-like linear print - utilising the Malay technique Kerawang - scaled across the aforementioned cuts alongside a section of separates spanning lightweight micro-shorts, skirts and blouses. Introducing a harder, utilitarian edge and suggestive of the notion of romance as battleground, an oversized flap pocket motif appeared first at the bust of an  and then at the sleeve, informing a stiff, tapered boxed sleeve silhouette, extending above the shoulder.

The delicate combat conceit continuing, exaggerated collars came finished with resilient metal beading whilst Chandran's reputation for innovative silhouettes and angular cuts resolved itself in striking linear pleats extending the hips upon slender trousers, a staggered hem encasing the back of a shoe, fan like protrusions bursting at the reverse of dresses, blown up cap sleeves and nebulous, three dimensional forms exposing feats of seaming.

In a palette of black and rich jade, a closing barrage of metallics in bronze, silver, pewter and gold, saw simple panelled cuts give way to longer hem lines at the reverse,  before finishing with luxe feathers bursting from and enveloping the torso of a caramel, floor length gown.

Catwalk images to follow...

Posted by Luke Raymond