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LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W2011-12 - CSM MA

We all know the drill at Central Saint Martins’ yearly rather than seasonal showings. Amidst the queues, the inevitable let-down enthusiasts unable to squeeze into the BFC and the buzz, the bite, the hype, and hallow of former graduates, twenty one graduates present their final collections that –fingers crossed – will pitch them into New Gen or Fashion East, Vauxhall Fashion Scout or On|Off, Celine or Chloe.

Drawing parallels to AW 10/11’s collision of manipulated minimalism and bold, blatant expression, fragmented, sculptural neutrals tussled with mix-and-match bricolage. In menswear, Pierong Wu dissected weighty tailoring wools in a symbolic destruction of suiting. Longline knit silhouettes, tunic-like in their slender length came purposefully sullied and manipulated, with contrast sleeves rendered in glistening iridescent technicals and lapel-less blazers pitched off centre with subtle asymmetry. Inky strikes of Yves Klein Blue offered a graphic response to deep uniform greys and rich creams.

Reappropriating the plaids of his BA collection, Shaun Samson melded cable knit and fading blanket plaid prints across crisp minimalist cuts. A revitalisation of stuffy heritage, oversized t-shirt silhouettes, blown-up Buffalo checks and graduated straight-leg trousers capture a collusion of street and aristocracy.

Much like Samson, Raffele Ascione appropriated oversized silhouettes and pieced-together panelling to revitalize, staid, ladylike fabrications. The visor stood as the collection’s central motif, flipped-up papal like to crown each look, flaring from the hip as a lace trimmed peplum or informing jutting, exaggerated shoulders. If felted hoop earrings, jigsaw sweats and blown-up t-shirts read rudegirl then stiff flaring skirts, the printed textures of lace, grayscale herringbone and sepia tinged wallpaper - united across curved shoulder and drop-sleeved forms - saw papal, Milanese nuances resuscitated for now.

Invigorating the existing, Myrza De Muynck sparred sportswear and feminine elegance. Technical nylons and silks elevated panelled trousers and zip-up shelll-suit tops whilst hues of baby pink, jewel embellishment, painted seascapes, delicate embroidery and flaring peplums transformed the at-first-glance athletic.

Epitomising the alternative aesthetics posed at the show, Jenny Postle enshrined models in chiffon separates and maxi dresses plastered in a jagged patchwork panelling of remnants whilst Viktor Smedinge harnessed a neutral palette of black and putty to manipulate and project the female form with curving shoulders, placement scrolls and jointed panelling.

Images by Duilio Marconi.

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