VALENTINO COUTURE 2010
Faced with the pressure of following an A/W09 collection criticised for an excessive focus on the past, former Valentino accessories designers Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiur appear to have absorbed such critiques as they push the house of Valentino in a refreshing new direction.
In a play with lace they free it from any austere connotations, bunching, ruching and patchworking, creating tactile, flirtations and youthful minidresses. There is no sign of the red associated with the house and instead a limited colour palette of black, nudes and a hint of grey.
Piccioli and Chuir capitalise upon this limited colour palette to produce a new model in Valentino sexiness. Rather than blatant red of the house, they - like Dior - use the nude tones to posit underwear as outerwear and invoke a subtle sexiness which fits with the youthful, flirtatious collection. We'll just have to wait and see whether such a shift is welcome or whether Piccioli and Chuir go the way of Alessandra Facchinetti.
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