LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S2010 - KATIE EARY
Following on from her Animal Farm homage of last season, Katie Eary evoked further seminal works of literature through a collection entitled 'Naked Lunch'. Inspired by William Burroughs's Naked Lunch and Junky, Katie's collection, with an exoskeletal focus, delved to the literal depths of opium addiction. T-shirts printed with anatomical hearts and embellished with ombre human hair were layered over sheer long sleeves.
Digitally printed with bones, and in turn over-layed with weighty gold chains and pearls, draped as if echoing the ribs and spine, transformed the macabre into the beautiful, a grungy decadence. This exo-skeletal focus extended to hand-pieces and sandals, plated in gold and created by the jeweller Mawi, and exaggerated rope shoulderpieces. Shredded and cut out PVC shorts in red and navy acted as a less literal interpretation of exo-skeletal, exposing skin and at the same time aping the shape of ribs.
The ribs evolved into heavyweight chain-mail capes and hoodies, which teamed with the ubiquitous black pvc snake skin trousers and shorts, studded along the seams and pockets, continued the juxtaposition of luxury and the results of addiction, resulting in a fully realised collection, which like James Long unabashedly pushed menswear in an avant-garde direction.
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