PARIS FASHION WEEK S/S2010 – YOHJI YAMAMOTO
A continuation from last season's brilliant play on the humble peacoat, Yohji Yamomoto, rather than imbuing his Spring/Summer collection with high brow, conceptual conflagurations, chose instead to focus upon the wearable. Tailoring and simple separates were reinterpreted with that pronounced Yamamoto edge. A blazer; coreseted, double breasted and tumbling from the shoulder; a puff sleeved, popped collared shirt paired with floor length skirt, and a leg of mutton sleeved, supple black leather jacket, all abounded with a slightly skewed reverence.
Laser cutting which distressed and transformed floor-length frock coats into swirling masses of lace, added a hint of welcome disintegration to evening wear, and - particularly when paired with dusty up-do's - evoked a tarnished baroque heroine; Marie Antoinette dragged straight from her disintegrating empire. This effete bent resounded in baby blue and cream dresses, some explicitly baroque - a sharply corseted number - and some more nineties in essence - a floor length slip paired with a matching top-of-the-wish-list moto jacket.
Wearable yes, conservative no, Yohji produced a joyful Spring/Summer collection that - testament to his own skill - navigated that difficult path between directional and saleable.
Posted by Luke Raymond
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